3 weeks ago
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I left the last day of my Colombian itinerary blank so I could fill it with local recommendations. My tour guide from day 1 in Medellin recommended visiting Comuna 13 on a free walking tour with Zippy Tour, so we took the suggestion. Initially, I’d had Comuna 13 on my maybe list, fearing it may be too touristy for my tastes and– it was. However, my tour guide was awesome and the community has an inspiring transformation story so today let’s talk about Comuna 13- its past and present, and how to make the most of your visit.
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Comuna 13’s Transformational Story
Medellin is divided into 16 comunas or districts. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Comuna 13 was considered one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in the world. It was run by violent narcotraffickers who used the sprawling poverty-stricken hillside community as a transit route in and out of the city. Comuna 13 also served as a stronghold for guerrillas, gangs and paramilitaries. Most of its residents were illiterate and unemployed, making it easy for gang recruitment of adults and children. Following the assassination of druglord Escobar in 1993, things began to change for Comuna 13. In 2002, the Colombian president launched a raid on the community to remove all criminal elements, combining forces with the Colombian National Police, Armed Forces, Air Force and Navy. This raid, known as Operation Orion, was rife with human rights breaches such as arbitrary detentions, deaths, disappearances and injuries, and the neighbourhood’s 100,000 residents were caught in the crossfire. However, it had the desired effect of quelling violence in the community.
Over the next decade, the government set about improving the hillside commune through social programs and installing vital infrastructure:
- Schools, community centres and playgrounds were built for education and youth upliftment
- Outdoor escalators which extend over 1,260 feet (384m) were installed to reduce walking time in the community from an hour to a few minutes
- Cable car lines were installed to connect the deepest parts of Comuna 13 with the rest of the city.
These changes allow residents to commute daily for work and education, leading to marked improvement in literacy, education and gainful employment rates. It also came with another positive; the newfound freedom sparked a surge in creativity and civic pride. Local artists began brightening the neighbourhood with murals and graffiti, converting Comuna 13 into Medellin’s most colourful commune. These murals narrate the story of Comuna 13 and is a beautiful sight to behold while riding the escalators or getting lost in the community’s maze of narrow alleys and staircases. After meeting outside the San Javier Metro Station, my Zippy tour guide explained this history and the story behind a few of the murals before taking us inside the community. I’m happy my guide didn’t shy away from the community’s dark past, as it helped us to appreciate the transformation that much more.
What to Do in Comuna 13
Twenty years ago, Comuna 13 was one of the most dangerous neighbourhoods in the world. Now, it’s one of Colombia’s biggest tourist attractions which can get up to 6,000 visitors each day. The residents have capitalized on this and there are now hundreds of restaurants, cafes, street food stalls and souvenir shops which was overwhelming for me. That being said, Monday is the best day to visit as many establishments are closed so the crowd isn’t as thick as it gets on other days. The worst time to visit Comuna 13 is on the weekends as that’s when it gets its most visitors. Nonetheless, you’ll have plenty of options at which to shop and eat. Some tours include lunch, but mine didn’t as I chose a free tour. You may be fortunate enough to see a local dance troupe breakdancing in the streets like we did. Comuna 13 is safe to visit in the daytime, but tour guides are recommended.
Outside of that, walking around, appreciating the art and people-watching is the extent of the activities in Comuna 13. I found the town too much of a sensory overload and crowded for my tastes, even with visiting on a Monday. Thus, after taking a few pictures, we retraced our steps back to the metro station then to our hotel, spending a total of about 3-4 hours in Comuna 13.
Wrap Up
Despite my mixed views on Comuna 13, I still think it was a great way to spend my final day in Medellin and I recommend everyone to visit– at least for the history lesson. Comuna 13’s transformation story is very inspiring and serves as a beacon of hope for marginalized neighbourhoods around the world (my country has many!). Comuna 13 shows that it’s possible to rewrite one’s story through government and community partnership. Have you visited Comuna 13 before or would you visit if given the opportunity one day? Sound off in the comments section below.
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