5 Questions With Biggy

The name Earl Turner may not immediately excite, but drop the moniker ‘Biggy’ in the middle, and it’s a completely different reaction. Biggy isn’t just a name, it’s a brand. And, incidentally, for those who don’t know what he looks like in person, the name Biggy is not a reflection of his height. The celebrated fashion designer, renowned for his pioneering dancehall creations, built a devoted following in the ‘80s and ‘90s, long before social media existed.

And that’s not surprising, because in the world of high fashion with daring, futuristic, out-of-the-box and over-the-top designs, “Biggy” and “iconic” are two words that are stitched together seamlessly.

His statement-making Biggy Designs commanded the international stage when Grammy Kid, Shabba Ranks, stepped out, and stars including Buju Banton, Garnett Silk, Pinchers, Toots Hibbert, Beenie Man, Lady Saw, Red Dragon and Spice, have all rocked his creations.

His 30-plus years in fashion have taught Biggy a lot. Though not front and centre on the runway, he continues creating exclusive designs and dropping collections. In May 2024, his designs lit up the runway at the Sashi Experience Fashion Show at Plantation Cove, and he also showed at the Cooyah Fashion Show. Last Saturday, Biggy was one of the special guests at Fashion Elevation and 5 Questions With ... got a chance to catch up with him.

1. You are known to be quite elusive, preferring to let your designs do the talking. What are you working on currently?

Well ... I am always doing things ... but it’s just that now I do it on a more exclusive level. Some of my designs aren’t even seen locally because as soon as I finish them, they are packaged for overseas. I work with some female artistes ... and I have the Powerful Men and Women in Concert coming up, where I will be dressing some of the performers, so I am looking forward to that. And I am working on a collection as we speak.

2. How did you get started in the fashion business?

It all started with my mother, she’s a dressmaker ... so there was always a sewing machine, scissors and fabric all around. I’m a creative person, so it was easy for me to take up a piece of fabric, start cutting and make something. And it continued from there, with me learning all the right sewing techniques, reading books on designing and the use of fabrics, and experimenting and creating. I enjoy what I am doing, and I love to see people step out looking their best.

3. You created some memorable designs for Shabba Ranks in his heyday. What are some of your favourite pieces?

For me, it was creating some of the video pieces ... like Housecall with him and Maxi Priest ... Trailer Load, Mr Loverman ... and, of course his Grammy outfit. That was one of the most iconic pieces because it made the cover of Time Magazine.

4. What was the inspiration behind that iconic design?

When I made the suit and cut the jacket, some of the pieces fell to the ground. When I looked at it, it looked like a felt hat. Mi tek up and stitch out the edge and stuff it with some sponge, and it could fit from the shoulder like that. Den mi get an idea. So I shape it properly and put it on the shoulders, and that fit perfectly. And that was the highlight of the outfit. The fabric was fabulous too ... it was black sequins with some swarovski crystals. When Shabba’s people came to pick up the suit, they were confused. They said, ‘Biggy, we don’t like it.’ I said ‘What is it about it that yuh don’t like?’ Dem seh ‘We don’t know’... When they went to the Grammys dem call mi day after and seh ‘Bwoy Biggy we cyaan talk to yuh again ... because you do wha’ you fi do, and we couldn’t stop yuh.”

5. How did you feel when you made the Time Magazine cover?

Bwoy ... I didn’t expect it. When I was making the suit, I said to myself that if Shabba is going to the Grammys, then I want to show what we can do. My idea was to catch the eyes of some foreign artistes ... mek somebody in foreign who’s very big see it and like the work. And it happened. They came back and told me that people want to mass produce Shabba’s collections, but they wanted to do it in a way where dem control [things]. But mi seh no, if I’m the designer, let me talk to the people. And because of that, certain things never work out and mi seh what a pity eeh. Shabba should have a collection right now selling in stores... But I’m still proud of myself.

BRAWTA

How do you feel about current dancehall fashion?

Dancehall has lost its identity where fashion is concerned. That image that dancehall used to have nuh deh deh anymore and that’s unfortunate. Dancehall fashion is a thing that people overseas would watch intently, and a few designers would sneak it into their collections, but that vibrant energy ... that identity isn’t there [anymore]. There are still a few artistes who try, and I definitely commend them.

yasmine.peru@gleanerjm.com