The tunnel that time couldn’t forget

Freelance Contributor

Hidden among the rolling green hills of Tabaquite, where mist sometimes settles gently over cocoa fields, and forests whisper with the sounds of birdsong, stands one of Trinidad and Tobago’s most remarkable reminders of a vanished age.

Knollys Tunnel – quiet, weathered and wrapped in dense vegetation – continues to captivate visitors more than a century after it first opened as part of the island’s once-thriving railway network. Though trains no longer thunder through its dark interior, the tunnel remains alive in memory, history and the curiosity of those willing to venture beyond the familiar.

For many, the journey to Knollys Tunnel forms part of its enduring appeal.

Travelling east from Chaguanas along the Caparo Valley-Brasso Road, visitors gradually leave behind the noise and pace of urban life. The landscape shifts almost imperceptibly. Concrete gives way to open countryside, while cocoa estates, forests and sleepy villages unfold across the hillsides.

Passing through Palmiste, Caparo, Mamoral, Brasso and Flanagin Town, the route becomes less about the destination and more about the experience itself — a slow immersion into rural Trinidad, where winding roads and lush greenery offer a reminder of a quieter rhythm of life.

Near the Tabaquite Government Primary School, a modest, weathered sign points the way. A short drive beyond a small cluster of homes reveals the entrance to the tunnel, its stone façade emerging dramatically from thick greenery and towering trees, as though history itself had been tucked carefully into the hillside.

Built in 1898, Knollys Tunnel was named after Sir Clement Courtenay Knollys, the Acting Governor of Trinidad and Tobago, who officially opened the railway passage on August 20 of that year. Measuring 660 feet in length, it remains the longest railway tunnel ever constructed in Trinidad and represented a major engineering accomplishment during the colonial period.

At the time, the tunnel symbolised progress.

More than 220 dignitaries and guests attended the opening ceremony, celebrating not only the completion of the structure itself but also the extension of the railway line into Tabaquite and Rio Claro. For rural communities, the railway became far more than a transport system. It linked families, supported trade and transformed agriculture, carrying passengers and crops – particularly cocoa – from the island’s interior to markets in Port of Spain.

Yet, like many chapters of history, the railway’s prominence proved fleeting.

On August 30, 1965, the Rio Claro railway line was officially closed, marking the end of an era that many residents had never imagined would disappear. Emotions ran high across communities that had grown dependent on the rail network.

In one of the most dramatic reactions to the nationwide closure, angry residents reportedly stoned the final train and blocked the railway tracks near Jeffers Halt. The incident reflected the profound connection communities had developed with the railway despite declining passenger numbers and changing national priorities.

What followed was silence.

For years, Knollys Tunnel sat abandoned, gradually slipping into neglect as nature reclaimed what industry had left behind. Thick vegetation crept over the surrounding landscape, while the once-busy route faded into memory.

Then, decades later, came renewal.

In 1991, then Minister of the Environment and National Service Dr Lincoln Myers officially reopened the tunnel as a national heritage site, breathing new life into one of Trinidad’s forgotten landmarks.

Among those who have remained deeply committed to preserving the tunnel is Henry Awong, Vice-Chairman of the Couva/Tabaquite/Talparo Regional Corporation. For years, he has advocated for the development and upkeep of the site, seeing not merely a relic of the past but an opportunity for the future.

“We saw the value in it,” he said. “It attracts tourists to the community and contributes to local economic development.”

Restoration efforts transformed the area significantly. The once-muddy tunnel floor was paved, drainage improved, solar-powered lighting installed, washroom facilities constructed and surrounding infrastructure upgraded. Much of the work took place in collaboration with the National Trust, which continues to oversee the preservation of important heritage sites.

Today, Knollys Tunnel attracts a steady flow of visitors, particularly during the August vacation period. Maxi taxis and tour buses frequently make the trip from the East-West Corridor, bringing curious travellers eager to experience one of the country’s hidden historical gems.

But for Awong, the tunnel’s story is still unfinished.

He believes the landmark holds even greater potential for eco-tourism and community development. Ideas have included nature trails above the tunnel, a small museum dedicated to railway artefacts and even a weekend farmers’ market showcasing produce from surrounding agricultural communities.

“It has great value for Tabaquite,” he said. “We want people to learn about the history of the tunnel and the role it played in the development of central and south Trinidad.”

Residents living nearby have also witnessed the steady stream of interest.

Retiree Gerard Ryan, who lives near the tunnel and tends a cocoa estate, says visitors are a familiar sight, especially on weekends.

“You see plenty people coming from east Trinidad and other areas,” he said. “The tunnel brings people into the community.”

Still, some believe the surrounding village has yet to fully benefit from the attraction.

Sunil Sagar, proprietor of a nearby bar, said many visitors stop briefly at the site before leaving without exploring the wider community.

Roadside vendor John Duprey agrees. Proud of what he describes as the best green figs in the district, he believes improved signage and visitor information could encourage tourists to spend more time in the area, supporting local businesses and roadside vendors in the process.

For now, however, Knollys Tunnel continues to stand quietly among the hills of Tabaquite — part monument, part memory and part mystery.

As Trinidad and Tobago looks for new ways to preserve and promote its heritage, the tunnel remains far more than an abandoned railway passage. It is a gateway into the island’s past, a symbol of rural resilience and proof that some of the nation’s richest stories still lie waiting, hidden far from the beaten path.